Ngulia Tsavo-west Kenya
November Session 14th to 24th 2012
Many people have made the pilgrimage to this spectacular
event over the last 4 decades, for me it was my 3
rd time.
Since the late 60’s when Graeme Backhurst and David
Pearson discovered the phenomenon of migrating birds being drawn into the
lights of the Ngulia Lodge, over ¾ of a million birds have been ringed of a
spectacular number of species.
Nairobi to Tsavo
I met my some of the team and friends Barry Williams and
Richard Charles and Graeme Backhurst at the airport where we got the vehicles
and set off on the Mombasa road to the park. Graeme was one of the first ever
ringers to have discovered the migration phenomenon at Ngulia in the 60’s.
Along the route the development in Kenya was evident, so
many trucks coming up from the coast, and going back down. It was good to see a
few Black-chested and Brown Snake Eagles on the pylons.
We got to Hunters Lodge for a meal and drink and met the
others, Kane Brides, Christopher Bridge and Dave Murdoch who were busy birding,
the former two being their first time out here.
During the hour or so we recorded several Steppe and
Lesser Spotted Eagles going over high as well as Steppe and Honey Buzzards.
We got to the park and just before entering managed to
get a couple of feral pigeons in the village for the raptor nets!
The drive in was spectacular as ever, Martial were common
and we even watched one nail a Guineafowl, dragging the carcase into the shade
of a small bush. We saw 2 pairs of Secretary Birds, Eastern-chanting Goshawks
and many more.
At the lodge it was great to see Colin Jackson and meet
Andrew and Alex Kinzer who are with Arocha Kenya.
Whilst settling into the room, I stuck out a spring-trap
in the hope of nailing one of the many Red-winged Starlings around the lodge.
Not much happened until I put out the stuffed Eagle Owl I had bought up with me
from SA! Suddenly the veranda was full of the starlings and the owl was taking
a huge hammering, so I bought it in and in seconds, snap! Went the springtrap
and we had Baz a real bogey bird tick!
Got the raptor nets set up in a ‘V’, set the dove in the
middle and made a makeshift hide out of tablecloths filched from the
restaurant! I spent a couple of hours in the hide making the dove flap up in
the air everytine a raptor went over and got some birds interested, Tawny
Eagle, Auger Buzzard and Steppe Buzzards would ‘lock up’ and come screaming
down, but reckon were put off by the inefficiency of the hide.
|
juv Levant Sparrowhawk |
No Mist in the night which was possibly a good thing to
allow some of us to get a good nights sleep. There were a few birds caught in
the night nets, namely Sprosser, but a very interesting turn up was a Singing
Bush lark, a lifer for me and a first for the group! The day nets the next
morning produced a few Afro-tropicals Pygmy Batis, but then, Colin handed me a
bird bag with a long tailed something inside, saying ‘what do you reckon on
this’! Gingerly extracting it I discovered a small sparrowhawk in juvenile
plumage of whose ID was not immediately apparent. Looking at the breast one
could be forgiven for saying African Goshawk, but this bird was far too small
and its feet were true bird catchers with elongated middle toes. Also the
yellow Cere was misleading for Af Gos, certainly was no African Accipiter I was
familiar with. Someone mentioned Eurasian Sparrowhawk, but the juv plumage was
completely wrong for that species. Eventually I came down on the possibility of
Levant Sparrowhawk and looking in my in-hand raptor ID book by Bill Clark,
immediately saw that it was perfect for Levant Sparrowhawk! A very rare bird in
these parts and the first ringed at Ngulia.
The next few nights were mist free and people were
beginning to get concerned that they would not get to see the incredible
‘Ngulia Phenomenon’. During the days we caught some interesting species, Common
Rock Thrush, Rufous Chatterer, Nubian Woodpecker and another raptor, Little
Sparrowhawk which chased something into the nets which got out, leaving the
unlucky Sparrowhawk caught!
I had another go at the raptor nets, attracting Auger
Buzzard, Bateleur, Peregrine Falcon and a huge Greater Spotted Eagle went over,
but no luck. There were 2 pairs of resident Wahlberg’s Eagle, a species
normally easy to catch like this, but each bird drifted over the dove, had a
good look then took off.
All the while some good movement of raptors, Steppe
Booted and Tawny, a couple of Honey Buzzards and a pair of Verreaux’s Eagles
come over at one point.
|
Puff Adder being escorted off the premises! |
One evening after supper we had an unwanted guest in the
form of a rather large Puff Adder which had made its way into reception. There
was no way the snake was going to leave and so had to be taken out manually. I
got hold of a wooden spear from a statue and managed to get a good grasp of the
beasts’ neck and carried it out to let it go in the bush where it would
hopefully feel more at home.
During the days after breakfast, we put the single panel
nets up on the lawn a picked up a few hundred Barn Swallows over the days.
Finally on the 19th the fog came. It was all
hands on deck as mist rolled in, bringing tens of thousands of bird down with
it.
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3-5 birds per bag! |
The procedure was for 2 extractors to man the two night
nets and runners to go and take birds off them. This was performed by the
security night watchman who was a huge help. The ringing table was set up with
3-4 ringers and a single scribe, usually Alex as the ringers got stuck into the
birds. On occasions there would be 4-5 hundred birds in bags strung out on
bamboo poles waiting to be ringed.
Each evening one of the highlights of the lodge for many
tourists was the baiting of the ‘Leopard Tree’ where a leg of goat was hung up
and the local Leopard(s) would come and feed in front of all the cameras. This
was all very well, but when you have to spend the night extracting next to the
tree and the Leopard not very far away, it focused the mind somewhat!
In the night nets were mostly Sprosser, Marsh Warbler, Common
Whitethroat, Irania, Spotted Flycatcher and River Warbler.
|
Adult male Barred Warbler |
At dawn, we would open the day nets and all the hundreds
of migrants which had occupied the thickets would be caught. Oddly there were a
lot of new species caught like Red-backed and Isabelline Shrikes, Olive-tree,
Upchur’s Barred and Basra Reed Warblers.
|
Adult male Ortolan Bunting |
A great surprise for me was to get to not only finally
catch up with after many years, but to ring a Gambaga Flycatcher, only a few
have ever been caught at Ngulia! And another real surprise, Ortolan Bunting,
the second ever! It was a cracking adult male, and the only Palearctic
migratory seed-eater to come to Africa.
|
David with his Wahlberg's Eagle |
One afternoon after ringing a couple of hundred Barn
Swallows, we took a little drive and found a Wahlberg’s Eagle on a dead tree by
the track. Got a Bal-chatri trap down and the bird came in straight away and
eventually got caught. Took the bird into the lodge, much too all the tourists
surprise where David Gitau ringed it. It was an adult and probably a female.
Some of the team had left so there were only now six of
us left with a couple of busy nights ahead of us!
|
sub adult Auger Buzzard |
Another raptor run the next day produced a sub adult
Auger Buzzard again to the Bal-chatri and a very good tick for Richard.
There were a few other interesting birds to turn up in
the nets, Asian Lesser Cuckoo, Isabelline Wheatear, Green Pigeon, Black and
White Cuckoo, Golden Pipit, Donalson-smith’s and Plain Nightjars.
|
Lovely male Golden Pipit |
The next night was a good one and we were kept busy till
dawn extracting continually whilst the ringing table tried to keep up with the
numbers. One of the most bizarre bird sightings at around 0300hrs was a Narina
Trogon sitting in the thorn tree! Just goes to show what birds move and why, is
always the big question. Another bird that regularly turned up in the night
nets were Barn Swallows, not a species you would imagine to migrate at night.
|
the Georgia ring! |
Finally one night around 0430hrs we were rewarded with a control
Sprosser from Tiblisi, Georgia, this is what it is all about and later
discovered it was ringed as a juvenile this year in August.
Eventually the moon became brighter each phase and the
birds were beginning to dwindle, so on the last day we took down all the day
nets and packed up all the considerable kit and set off for Nairobi.
Over the 10 days we spent at the lodge we had mist on 5
nights which enabled us to catch and ring 7800 birds.